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WILDSIDE ADVENTURE - RIO LONGA - ANGOLA




210km south of the Angolan capital, Luanda, Rio Longa Lodge is situated on an island in a backwater lagoon of the Longa River, towards the northern end of a 7km sand spit. The Longa River flows into the sea and the southern tip of the spit, going over a sandbar, creating at times some spectacular water.

Upon arrival at the pick up point which is by the Bridge over the Longa River, you are collected by boat to be taken to the Lodge. This initial trip down the river will give you some insight as to what to expect in the way of bird life in the area.


At the Lodge there are four large bungalows catering for 8 guests, and each is equipped with shower and toilet facilities plus mosquito nets.
They are spacious, complete with a balcony facing the sand spit and providing spectacular views both up and down river, with floating reed, grass and Lilly beds. All the bungalows are connected by a walkway running the length of the island
It is from the main bunaglow balcony that you can sit, drink your sundownwers
and watch some of the most spectacular sunsets to be seen.


Mangroves and Mopani palms, line the inner River Bank and provide habitat for a diverse number of species


At present it is believed that there are 355 endemic species of birds in the area, although at anyone time there may be in the region of 250.

During our stay we encountered almost on a daily basis:-

Angolan Kingfisher (rare)
Malacite Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Greater Kingfisher
Black Stork
Brown Snake Eagle
Terns
Goliath Heron
Egret
Sea Eagle
Palm Nut Vultures
Moorhens of various types
Swallows
Sequoia Heron
Grey Heron

Below are pictures of some of the bird species which we managed to photograph
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These were just the ones that we were able to identify, apart from the various species of canaries and finches in abundance in the reed beds. We would however be the first to admit that we are not that adept at bird identification, specialising more in marine fishes, especially sharks.

Up the river usually sited amongst the palms, are the villages of the indigenous people. They utilise their dug out canoes for river navigation and fishing.


The River itself is teeming with life. Among the Mangroves live various species of Tilapia, a small freshwater bream like fish, Mullet, Cat Fish and multitudes of Mangrove Crabs.


By far the largest inhabitants are the resident Crocodile population, one which is a large female who has a concealed nest site on the bank amongst the Mangrove roots. At the Lodge they know where this nesting site is and it is given a wide berth at the appropriate times of the year. The crocs' are very shy and wary of human beings, and always disappear at the sound of the boats. We felt perfectly safe with this situation, but certainly avoided swimming in the river.


Look up into the trees and you may be lucky enough to see Iguanas.


The sand spit is not devoid of life as there are always Herons at the waterside together with Egrets and other wader species, and the occasional basking Crocodile in one of the sandy inlets amongst the grassy bank. Drive past slow in the boat to achieve some amazing pictures of 'a chilled out Croc'. Ghost Crabs skitter and dart all along the waters edge looking for that small morsel washed up with the tide and you are never too far from the Lodge.


At night the seaward side of the spit enters into its own dimension. It could well be that this remote beach is possibly one of the worlds important nesting sites, for a number of species of Turtles. Since December 2002 some 1000 Turtles have hauled themselves out of the sea to lay their eggs on this beach. Recorded species identification is a little scare at the moment, as the survey is in its infancy, and the beach is now patrolled and protected by 13 local people employed by the Lodge to record the nesting sites and hatchlings as they occur. The Turtle Watch Camp is situated towards the southern end of the sand spit. To-date positive identification has been made of 'Grandees' the local name for Leatherback Turtles, Green Turtles and one which is locally known as 'Round Turtle.'


To make sure that the nests are not interfered with, they are marked with pieces of drift wood from the beach, and each is recorded by the Turtle Watch Team. An early morning walk along the beach will quickly introduce you to the tell tale signs of overnight turtle activity.
The nesting season for the Turtles is between December and late February, and the last of the nest will usually have hatched by April. It takes between 40/70 days, for the 50/70 eggs laid, depending on temperature and conditions, for the baby Turtles to hatch and in this particular area, this takes place at night. Turtles do not reach maturity until they are at least 20 years old and from the size of some of the Turtles recorded on this beach some must be well in excess of this. When one of the Grandees (24 recorded as at beginning of February 2003) came up to nest, the span between her front flippers was wider that the tallest man on the beach that night and he was 6ft 3"! The total area at present being monitored by the Turtle Watch is some 10km, as this also takes into account the area beyond the river mouth and round to the nearest headland.

If you want to see a Turtle laying her eggs, then one of the Turtle Watch team will inform the Lodge and you will probably get a wake up call between 1-5 a.m. A quick ride in the boat to the area, and very quietly, without interfering with the Turtle as she lays you will be able to watch. The Turtles when they first come onto the beach have a good scout around looking for that perfect nesting site. They find an area and begin to dig, and they very often they stop and move on somewhere else. This second site is the one they use for their nest. Occasionally a Turtle will come to the beach, dig a site, not like it and then do her scouting around bit and still not be satisfied and then decide that she is going to return to the sea. Once they have decided that this is not the place for them, be quick with the camera as they move quite fast and the route back to the sea is all down hill.

Those in the Turtle Watch have ascertained that when a Turtle does not lay this is because they believe that the sand is not warm enough or is too grainy. This is usually the case when there has been a lot of rain and high seas. They usually come up on another section of the beach, that same evening, and successfully lay their eggs.



Something that was apparent around the River area, was the lack of coloured plant life. There appeared to be very little in the way of flowering plants, apart from the water Lilies of which there are two types in the River. A white Lilly which opens in the evening time, and closes as the sun comes up and a mauve one which is open during the daytime. There are however many green foliage plants and trees.


Waterborne insects are abundant as are the various varieties of Dragonfly to be seen on the reed beds.

If you are feeling very adventurous you can go to Port Amboim which is a fishing town some 60km south of Rio Longa. They have a market there, which is a definite eye opener and they also have a fish market, when the local fishermen land their catch. There are some 'sea front restaurants' and the food is very good and very reasonable, but be guided by local knowledge of where to eat and what.


What you have at Rio Longa is a truly unique experience. You are visiting an environment which has been basically untouched for 30 years and sharing this with the resident wildlife and people. The Longa River, where the Lodge is based is close to many villages, and the lodge employs people from them to run the Lodge and to provide services. It is totally unique and unspoiled part of the Wildside of our planet. The villagers who live on the escarpment towards the river mouth use the lagoon for watering their livestock, obtaining water, and washing.
The beaches are unsoiled by man who is living in harmony with his surroundings. The people of Angola in this area are friendly if somewhat shy of us, yet they find us fascinating. They have lived within this splendid eco-system and we are just beginning to see it, so let us go, look and enjoy. If you are interested in bird watching, then this is definitely the place to visit, as the possibility of seeing rare and endangered species is all too appraent, especially when taking trips into the Quissama National Park, which can be arranged by the Lodge






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